Siding · Fiber cement · MA & NH

James Hardie® siding across MA & NH

Fiber cement looks like painted wood, won’t rot, and Hardie rates it noncombustible. How long it lasts comes down to the install. We put up Hardie lap, shingle, panel and trim across Massachusetts and New Hampshire, with the clearances, flashing and fastening Hardie’s instructions call for, because those details decide how the wall ages.

Fast turnaround: usually within 48 hours with drawings.

Fastest with drawings. No drawings? We visit first. Free either way.

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A-151Illustration · fiber cement
Sheet
A-151
Climate line
HZ5® for MA & NH
Finish
ColorPlus® or field-painted
Profiles
Lap · Shingle · Panel · Trim
Estimate
Free, fast turnaround

01General notesA-151.1

Fiber cement: what it is

Fiber cement is cement, sand and cellulose fiber, formed into boards and panels and cured. The result is heavy, rigid and mineral. It doesn’t rot, insects don’t eat it, and James Hardie describes its siding as noncombustible. It also moves far less with temperature than vinyl, so joints stay tight and long lines stay straight through a New England year.

It takes paint well, which is why it can pass for painted wood clapboard up close. The trade-off is weight and hardness. Fiber cement is slower to handle and cut than vinyl or wood, and cutting it makes dust that contains crystalline silica. Hardie’s instructions call for cutting outdoors with fiber cement shears or a dust-reducing saw hooked to a HEPA vacuum, and for HEPA or wet cleanup instead of sweeping.

Hardie is the best-known name in fiber cement, and it’s the brand we install. If you’re still choosing a material, read Hardie vs vinyl or see all three options in the siding comparison.

02DetailA-151.2

HZ5®: Hardie’s line for freeze-thaw climates

James Hardie doesn’t sell one formula everywhere. Its Hardie Zone System splits the map into climate zones and makes two product lines for them: HZ10® for hot, humid, storm-prone regions, and HZ5® for places with freezing temperatures, big seasonal swings, snow and ice.

Hardie’s ZIP-code chart places every ZIP code in Massachusetts and New Hampshire in HZ5, the coast included. Hardie says HZ5 products are engineered to resist shrinking, swelling and cracking after years of wet and freezing conditions, with a surface made for paint adhesion and moisture resistance, and a drip edge on lap boards to help shed water. The installation instructions are zone-specific too, so the right product and the right instructions go together.

The product is only half of it. A freeze-thaw wall fails at its edges: a cut end that was never sealed, a bottom course sitting in snow melt, a roof line with no kick-out. That’s where the install details further down this page come in.

Key points04

  • HZ5 on Hardie’s chart for every MA and NH ZIP code
  • Made for freezing temperatures, snow and ice
  • Drip edge on lap boards to shed water
  • Installed to Hardie’s HZ5 instructions

03ScheduleA-151.3

ColorPlus® vs primed and field-painted

Hardie siding comes two ways: with a factory-baked finish, or primed and ready for paint. Both work well. They suit different owners.

  1. 01Factory

    ColorPlus® factory finish

    The color is applied and cured in the factory, so there’s no painting step, no waiting on weather to paint and no lap marks. Cut edges get Hardie’s edge coater and nicks get Hardie’s touch-up. Joints are usually flashed rather than caulked, since caulk weathers differently from the finish. The palette is Hardie’s, and Hardie covers the finish under its own separate limited warranty.

  2. 02Field paint

    Primed, painted on site

    Any color you want, including historic palettes and exact matches. Hardie’s instructions set a window for painting after installation, recommend a 100% acrylic topcoat, and rule out stains and oil-based paints. You control color and sheen, and you take on a repaint cycle that depends on the paint, the exposure and the prep. The painting can be priced in the same estimate.

  3. 03Advice

    How to choose

    ColorPlus suits owners who want the finish done at the factory and like a color in Hardie’s range. Field paint suits historic houses, custom colors and owners who already repaint on a schedule. Either way, look at physical samples outside, in daylight, before you decide.

04ScheduleA-151.4

Lap, shingle, panel and trim

Most houses use two or three of these together. Shingles in the gables over lap on the walls is a New England classic. Board-and-batten suits farmhouses, barns and modern additions.

  1. 01HardiePlank®

    Lap siding

    Horizontal boards in a range of widths, with smooth or woodgrain faces and straight or beaded edges. The default for colonials, capes and most re-sides.

  2. 02HardieShingle®

    Shingle siding

    Straight-edge or staggered shingle looks. Common in gables and dormers, and across whole walls on shingle-style and coastal homes.

  3. 03HardiePanel®

    Panel and board-and-batten

    Large vertical sheets, smooth or textured. Add battens at a regular spacing and you have board-and-batten; leave clean reveals and you have a modern panel look.

  4. 04HardieTrim®

    Trim and soffit

    Corner boards, window and door casings, frieze and rake boards, and soffit in the same material, so the trim weathers and holds paint like the siding around it.

05ScopeA-151.5

Install details that decide longevity

Most fiber cement failures are installation failures. These details come from Hardie’s published installation instructions, and they are what we build to. Check any bid against them.

  • Clearance to grade. The bottom course stays well above the ground, about 6 inches in Hardie’s details, with the grade sloping away, so splash and snow melt don’t soak the first board.
  • Clearance at roofs, decks and steps. Siding stops short of roofing, decks, patios and steps by the gaps Hardie specifies, so no board ever sits in standing water or melting snow.
  • Kick-out flashing. Wherever a roof edge meets a wall, a kick-out diverts roof water into the gutter instead of down behind the siding.
  • Flashing over horizontal trim. Z-flashing above windows, doors and belly bands, with the 1/4-inch gap Hardie calls for left open, never caulked shut.
  • Barrier and opening flashing. A continuous water-resistive barrier behind everything, lapped shingle-style, with every window and door flashed into it.
  • Fastening. Blind-nailed, the method Hardie’s instructions favor, with the specified nails driven snug: not overdriven, not left proud, never stapled.
  • Joint treatment. Butt joints backed with joint flashing, the method Hardie recommends, instead of relying on caulk alone.
  • Sealed cut edges. Every field cut primed, painted, edge-coated or caulked into trim, depending on the finish.
  • Stainless steel near the ocean. Hardie’s instructions recommend stainless steel fasteners near the ocean, near large bodies of water and in very humid climates.
  • Dust control. Cuts made outdoors with shears or a dust-reducing saw on a HEPA vacuum, with HEPA or wet cleanup and no dry sweeping.

06DetailA-151.6

Coastal homes: Seacoast to the Cape

Salt air is hard on fasteners, flashing and paint, and coastal walls take more wind-driven rain than inland ones. Fiber cement itself handles the coast well: it doesn’t rot and salt doesn’t break it down. What needs attention is everything attached to it.

Hardie’s instructions recommend stainless steel fasteners near the ocean and large bodies of water. Flashing and fasteners should be chosen so they don’t corrode each other. The water side of the house takes the most sun and salt, so it pays to decide up front between ColorPlus and a field-painted finish you’re ready to maintain. Hardie’s care guidance is a gentle rinse with a garden hose and a soft brush, not a pressure washer; on the coast, that rinse washes off salt too.

We serve the whole coastline: the North Shore, the South Shore, Cape Cod and the Islands and New Hampshire’s Seacoast.

Key points04

  • Stainless steel fasteners, per Hardie’s coastal recommendation
  • Flashing and fasteners that won’t corrode each other
  • A finish chosen for the exposure
  • Extra care at kick-outs and window heads, where wind drives water

07DetailA-151.7

Can Hardie go up in winter?

Yes, with planning. The boards themselves aren’t the problem in cold weather. The limits come from everything that goes on with them: sealants, primers, touch-up and paint each have a minimum application temperature set by their maker, and none of them belongs on a wet or frosty surface.

So a winter job is planned around the weather. The aim is to tear off only as much wall as can be wrapped and closed the same day. Keep boards stored flat, dry and off the ground. Install over a dry barrier, never over ice or snow. Hold field painting and some caulking for a warm enough stretch, or choose ColorPlus so the finish was done in the factory.

If your project lands in the cold months, we’ll tell you up front which steps can happen now and which wait for warmer days.

Key points04

  • Sealants and paint applied within their makers’ temperature limits
  • The aim: open only as much wall as can be closed the same day
  • Boards stored flat, dry and off the ground
  • ColorPlus takes winter painting off the table

08General notesA-151.8

Historic districts: case by case

In a local historic district, the siding the street can see is the commission’s business. Massachusetts commissions work under Chapter 40C and review exterior features visible from a public way, and the building permit waits on their approval. New Hampshire towns set up historic district commissions under RSA 674 and write their own rules.

There’s no blanket answer for fiber cement. Some commissions accept it in some situations; others require wood clapboard or shingles. It’s decided case by case, building by building. Smooth-faced boards, an exposure that matches the original siding and trim profiles that suit the house’s period all help the case.

A 3D rendering can help a commission picture the change, but their own submittal rules come first: the drawings, product data and samples they ask for. If your house is in a district, tell us when you send drawings so the commission’s process is part of the plan from day one.

09General notesA-151.9

The manufacturer warranty

James Hardie publishes its own limited warranties: one for its siding, trim and soffit products, and a separate one for the ColorPlus finish. The terms, lengths, conditions and transfer rules are Hardie’s, and they can change, so read the current version on James Hardie’s warranty page before you decide.

One thing to know up front: Hardie’s installation instructions warn that failing to install and finish the product according to its written instructions and local building codes may void the product warranty. That’s one more reason the install details above matter, and why we follow Hardie’s current installation instructions for the exact product going on your house.

10NoteA-151.10

See Hardie on your house before you decide

Try profiles and colors on the demo house, then ask for a 3D rendering of your own house with your estimate. Same drawings, same scope, so the rendering matches what’s priced.

11Service areaA-151.11

Where we do this work

From our Waltham office we work across all of Massachusetts and New Hampshire. Because we price from your drawings, your town doesn’t change how we estimate.

Regions

Key plan: Massachusetts and New Hampshire, with our office in Waltham, MassachusettsNEW HAMPSHIREMASSACHUSETTSHQ · WALTHAM
Key planMA + NH · NTS

13QuestionsA-151.13

Questions about Hardie siding

Something else?

(857) 333-0278

Mon–Fri 8am–5pm · Sat 9am–4pm · Sun closed

info@kingsofdesigncorp.com
01Is James Hardie siding worth it in Massachusetts?

For many homes, yes. It handles freeze-thaw, doesn’t rot, resists fire and dents, and looks like painted wood up close. It costs more than vinyl up front, in material and labor, and it needs repainting over time, though Hardie says its factory ColorPlus finish outlasts paint applied on site. It makes the most sense if you’ll own the house for a long time, care about the look, live near the coast or want a noncombustible exterior. For a rental or a tight budget, vinyl may be the better spend.

02What does HardieZone HZ5 mean?

It’s James Hardie’s product line for cold climates. Hardie divides the map into climate zones and makes two lines: HZ10® for hot, humid regions and HZ5® for freezing temperatures, big seasonal swings, snow and ice. Hardie’s ZIP-code chart places all of Massachusetts and New Hampshire in HZ5. Hardie says HZ5 boards are engineered to resist shrinking, swelling and cracking through wet, freezing winters, with a surface made for paint adhesion and a drip edge on lap boards. The installation instructions are zone-specific too.

03Does Hardie siding need to be painted?

It comes two ways. ColorPlus® boards arrive with a factory-baked finish, so there’s no painting at install; you’ll repaint eventually, like any finished surface. Primed boards must be painted on site within the window Hardie’s instructions set, and Hardie recommends a 100% acrylic topcoat. Stains and oil-based paints aren’t allowed on Hardie products. Primed is the way to go for custom or historic colors. ColorPlus suits owners who want the finish done in the factory.

04How long does Hardie siding last?

Fiber cement is a long-life material. It doesn’t rot, insects don’t eat it, and sun doesn’t break it down the way it can break down plastics. In practice, the life of the wall depends on the install (clearances, flashing, sealed edges, the right fasteners) and on keeping the finish in good shape. James Hardie backs its products with its own limited warranty; read the current terms on Hardie’s site, since the manufacturer sets the coverage and conditions. We won’t put a number of years on your wall.

05How much more does Hardie cost than vinyl?

It costs more, in both material and labor. The boards are heavier and slower to cut, the trim work is more involved, and a primed board adds a painting step. How much more depends on the house: wall area, stories, openings, trim and repairs. The fair comparison is both options priced from the same drawings, so ask for Hardie and vinyl side by side. Send elevations or plans with dimensions and we’ll send a free written price, usually within 48 hours. No drawings yet? It’s still free: we visit, measure and send your price after the visit.

06Is fiber cement a good choice near the ocean?

Yes, with the right details. Fiber cement doesn’t rot and salt doesn’t break it down. The weak points near the water are metal and finish. Hardie’s instructions recommend stainless steel fasteners near the ocean and large bodies of water, the flashing has to be compatible with them, and the water side of the house takes extra sun and salt on its finish. Rinse coastal walls gently with a garden hose once or twice a year. We serve the whole coast, from New Hampshire’s Seacoast to Cape Cod and the Islands.

07Can Hardie siding be installed in winter?

Yes, with planning. The boards can go up in cold weather. The limits are the sealants, primers, touch-up and paint, which each have minimum application temperatures set by their makers, and no surface should be wet, icy or snow-covered. On a winter job, the aim is to open walls only as far as they can be wrapped and closed the same day, boards stay stored flat and dry, and any field painting may wait for a warmer stretch. A ColorPlus finish avoids winter painting altogether.

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